The 1952 Margaux-based Brane-Cantenac has enjoyed heated bidding in the international auction market, with an estimated $900 retail value as a Second growth estate vintage.

In the 2,000 year history of the wine world, Classified Growth Bordeaux still retains its magic, value and allure. Created in 1735, Margaux-based Château Brane-Cantenac caught the roving eye of the “Donald Trump” of the Bordeaux wine world in 1833: Baron Hector de Brane. By all accounts Brane was quite the socialite, and despite his vibrant personality, he had a deep scientific educational background and was largely responsible in identifying Cabernet Sauvignon as the Médoc’s ‘premier grape.’ By the time of the 1855 classification, Brane-Cantenac achieved the lofty second Growth classification.

Today the château is under the direction of the charming Henri Lurton, whose family bought the estate in 1925. Unlike many château owners who live in Paris and hire a vineyard manager to look after their property, Henri Lurton lives near his vines and can be seen in the vineyard almost daily, examining the grounds or overseeing trellising work. Near harvest, he tastes the grapes for ripeness in addition to sending the results for laboratory analysis. Recently, he invested in an optical sorter in addition to handpicking, which ensures that only the ripest grapes make the first wine.

Why this dedication? Perhaps it’s due to the fact that as eldest son, Henri received Brane-Cantenac, the family’s most prestigious estate, while the other nine siblings were bequeathed lesser estates.

Or that in the winery, the year “1925” (the year of the family’s acquisition) is carved into the wall, reminding Henri daily about his grandfather’s dedication to the brand. Either way, the highly credentialed owner holds oenology degrees from many institutions, including the University of Bordeaux, and as a young man worked in South Africa, Australia and Chile to perfect his skills and learn the newest technology in the industry.

Brane-Cantenac is one of the first Classified Growth estates to make this expensive investment of the optical sorter, signifying its continued desire to move toward the modern age and create the finest wines on the market.

Vintage variation is so crucial in Bordeaux there can be a several hundred dollar difference from one vintage to the next. The 1952 vintage sells for nearly $900 on the international online market — a very rare occurrence due to an excellent vintage. On the nose, the wine is fresh and lively, with concentrated black fruit on the palate and the kind of acidity and balance with firm tannins, which is responsible for its incredible longevity.

Many people assume that the older the wine, the better. While this is usually true for Classified Growth Bordeaux, Burgundy and Barolo, at some point (typically 15 to 20 years) the wines plateau and then slowly fall apart. The freshness of Brane-Cantenac’s 1952 is a testament to the vintage and the skill of the Lurtons as winemakers.

French tradition dictates that the most expensive and rare wines are served at the end of the meal, and usually with cheese. And in the case of the 1952, this is an appropriate choice as the wine still has incredible acidity and concentrated depth of fruit, yet the tannin is softer, and not as appropriate for steak as it would have been in its prime.

Brane-Cantenac, +33.557.888.333, www.brane-cantenac.com